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In fact, it was the Crusaders
that introduced the candied fruit and Oriental preserves to Europe.
These refined sweets arrived in France at
the end of the Middle Ages. In 1343, Pope Clement VI named
an Apt resident “Confectionary Master”, which contributed to making
Apt a privileged location for the fabrication of candied fruit.
The gastronomic 16th century was dominated by the
de Medicis family, who introduced to
the Court the refinement and the good taste of the Italian Renaissance.
Catherine de Medicis named as her personal physician Nostradamus,
born in the little hamlet of Saint-Remy. Provence was an extremely
poor region, badly irrigated. Fruit grew in
abundance, but great quantities were lost each year. Nostradamus
had the idea to conserve fruit in sugar, a new arrival in France.
In 1555, he wrote one of the most remarkable French
works on candy-making: “Treatise on Beauty Secrets and Preserves”,
beauty recipes, and especially recipes for dried sweets, that is,
candied sweets. He taught how to go about “candying small whole
lemons and oranges, quinces in quarters with the sugar in order
to make cotignac (dry preserves), pignolat (pinenut nougat), candied
sugar, syrups, candied pears, and marzipan”. The
secret of the candying process is simple, but delicate : it consists
of slowly penetrating the fruit with sugar, in several consecutive
baths, so that the fruit is preserved without losing its form, its
colour, or its savour. This tradition has come down through
the centuries, from the Renaissance to the present, throughout the
entire Mediterranean basin.
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